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How to Grow and Care for Flowers

Tuesday, March 29th, 2011
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How to Grow and Care for Flowers

A well attended s in your garden is a satisfying looks to your inner senses and creates an attractive landscape for your home and a boast to your visitors, friends and guests.

In order to create a vibrant garden with a lush ornamental and flowers, you need to make a simple garden plan to arrange your flowers in a manner not to compete themselves with sunlight, shade and soil nutrients.
You’ve to be acquainted with their natural growing environment so that your flowers are grown in their specific climatic adaptability to give you the best flowers you desires.

Ways to grow and care for your flowers

Location. See to it that you locate your garden with at least 5 – 6 hours of sunlight a day. Most flower plants needs enough sunlight exposure to ensure a healthy growth and beautiful flowers. You should have a record of sunlight level in your garden as a guide to track the changes of sunlight movement as the season changed. This way, you’re aware when to plant your flowers in every seasonal changes when sunlight is enough for growing plants.

Land preparation. Clear your garden from weeds and other foreign matters that would hinder your garden operations. Loosen the soil by plowing the area to a deep of at least 18 inches. Pulverize the soil with the use of a shovel or spade and mix with some compost to add more nutrients to the soil. Make some plots to ensure easy management of your plants and to make a raised beds against water accumulation during rainy days.

Planting. Plant your seedlings in a straight row in the plots the same depth the way they were planted in their previous containers to continue their growth undisturbed. Arrange your plants in a manner that their water and sunlight requirement are the same. Don’t plant together those that differs in their water and sunlight needs.

Water needs. After planting, ensure that your new plants are watered properly reaching up to the root system. Don’t over water your plants in their early plant growth. Maintain the soil moisture at a minimum level. Avoid wetting the leaves when watering to ward-off the plants from being infected with some fungus diseases, a common infection of flower plants.

Mulching. Put some mulching materials around the plants to maintain soil moisture level and to prevent the growth of weeds. Use a plastic mulching material if you can afford to buy, it’s more durable and effective in controlling weeds growth during the entire growing period of your flower plants. Plastic mulch is also effective as insect pests repellent.

Plant nutrition. As the plants progresses, fertilize them with a general purpose fertilizer every 3 months to maintain their growth development and supply nutrients needs. When your plants are already near their flowering stage, supply them with a low nitrogen fertilizer element to encourage flower growth.

Maintenance. Maintain their neat appearance by trimming some spent flowers and unnecessary branches that may interfere the plant’s growth. Remove those matured flowers to prevent from spreading some seeds in your garden that may produce some unnecessary growth of seedlings you don’t need.

Happy gardening!

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How to Grow Blueberry for Fun

Tuesday, March 29th, 2011
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How to Grow Blueberry for Fun

Blueberry is ideal for planting in your garden because of its medicinal value which is good for your health and other members of your family. It is said to be low in calories and sodium and has no cholesterol level.

It’s a good source of fiber and contains pectin an enzyme known to lower blood cholesterol. Additionally, it’s said to help prevent bladder infections and has the ability to prevent some kinds of cancers.

To grow blueberry is easy but it will take about three years before you can harvest the fruits. You’ve to extend another three years to fully get your maximum harvest, however, once it starts to bear fruits, it will continue to give you blueberries in your kitchen.

To plant blueberry, it’s recommended to plant at least two varieties to give you more and larger fruits, because two cultivars will cross-pollinate each other resulting in an improved berry size as against a single variety with small fruit size.

Before you start your blueberry plantation, prepare your soil properly, make soil amendment if it’s poor. Add some organic compost to enrich the soil and make sure it’s well drained. Blueberry doesn’t tolerate in water-logged soil condition.

After the land is prepared, plant your seedlings at 4 feet distance between hills and at least 1 – 2 inches deep into the soil. Each plant should be planted alternately with other cultivar to give you quality and bigger sized fruit berries caused by cross-pollination once they starts to bear fruits.

Water the new plants on a regular basis, but don’t keep the soil soggy all the time. Allow the soil to dry between watering, just maintain the soil moisture to support the plant’s water needs.

Once the plants are established, start pruning operations, removing some dead branches, especially those the cris-cross inside the entire plant to allow other branches to receive enough sunlight and free air circulation around the plant area.

Provide some mulching materials around the plant base to control weeds growth and to maintain the soil temperature around the growing bush.

Fertilize them in the late winter or early spring, month before growth starts to appear. In sandy soil, apply the fertilizer again 1 month later, after the first spring growth appears.

You can see the fruit of your toil at least 3 – 6 years after planting. Once your blueberry starts to bear fruits, it will continue bearing and increases production when you keep them pruned.

To keep a good result, you should prune your blueberries during the months of March especially in colder areas and earlier when you’re located in a warmer location.

Happy gardening!

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How to Grow gardenias for Flowers

Wednesday, November 3rd, 2010
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How to Grow gardenias for Flowers

Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides J. Ellis) is a quintessential southern ornamental shrub and trees of the family Rubiaceae with around 60 species which produces a creamy white or yellow tubular flowers with evergreen glossy leaves and large, berry-like fruits containing a sticky, orange pulp. It’s a native of tropical and subtropical Africa and Asia.

The Cape Jasmine Gardenia (G. augusta), a native of China is the favorite of some flower enthusiasts because of its so inviting fragrant flowers.

This flower plant is very exact in its growing period, so that you should be careful as to the plant’s essential growth requirements in order to insure that you have your flowers continues supply.

Essential requirements to grow Gardenia

Soil. Gardenia prefers an acidic soil with a pH value between 5 and 6. Below or above this soil pH would affect the growth process of the plant. The soil must be always moist but don’t let them make soggy since the flower formation will be affected heavily.

Provide your garden with a rich soil high in acidic content by amending with an acidifying fertilizer mixture and adding with peat moss, using an acidic mulch like pine needles or pink bark nuggets into the base of the plant population.

Sunlight Requirement. You should plant your Gardenia in an open field with enough sunlight especially in the morning or under a filtered light the whole day. But don’t over expose also the plant since it will cause the flower buds to drop before they open to bloom.

Temperature. You should observe the temperature especially during the night with at least over 65 or below 60 degrees F. The ideal temperature for a successful Gardenia flower bloom would be 65 to 70 degrees during the day and 60 to 62 degrees during the night. To maintain its humidity, you need to have a daily misting of the entire plant population.

Plant Nutrition. You can add magnesium and liquid iron chelate once a month to supply the plants with some micro-nutrients and to provide an attractive glossy beautiful leaves during its entire growth.
Pests and disease control. Monitor your plants from the attack of sooty molds on the leaves which is an indication that there are white flies in the area. To control white flies, use a yellow sticky traps to catch them or simply spray with a homemade insecticides, a mixture of 2 tablespoon vegetable oil, 2 tablespoon baking soda, and 2 tablespoon powder laundry soap. Mix thoroughly and spray directly to the insects.
One of the disease of Gardenia is the root rot which is cause by too much water accumulation in the soil. To avoid the occurrence of root rot, just minimize your water supply. Maintain the soil moisture at a minimum level.

Pruning. To have a continuous flower bloom for the next season, prune those branches that looks dormant and are not actively growing. But don’t cut the leaves because these leaves aid in the manufacture of foods for the plant growth process.

To ensure a bushy appearance of your Gardenia plants, pinch out the tips while the plant is still at its dormant stage. Pinching enhances to produce more flowers in the succeeding year.

Happy Gardening!

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How to Grow Forsyhtia for Its Flowers

Sunday, October 31st, 2010
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How to Grow Forsythia for its Flowers

Forsythia (Forsythia spp.) is a deciduous spring flowering and hardy shrub that grows in full sunlight but also tolerates in partial shade area. Even with little attention, you can grow them favorably, an ideal for novice flower gardeners.

It produces a bright yellow to orange flowers that attracts florists and gardeners to include in their collections of flowering plants. They are ideal for beautifying your garden because they are easy to grow with less maintenance in your part, so you can tend some other delicate flowering plants.

There are varieties of Forsythia that you can select, pure and hybrid types and the famous one is the Weeping Forsythia. If you want the dense foliage and low shrub type, select the Arnold Forsythia Dwarf.

Planting Requirement for Forsythia

Planting materials. They can be propagated from cuttings or seeds taken from a semi-ripe stem cuttings and they grow fast.

Soil. Any kind of soil is ideal for this plant. Even in acidic, low acidic, moderately alkaline and neutral soils Forsythia can thrives best.

Light requirement. Forsyhtia can survived both in an open field or partly shaded area, but for best continuous flower blooms, you’ve to expose them to at least 5 – 7 hours of sunlight during the day.

Location. Discourage planting your Forsythia near some surrounding buildings, because they’re fast growing and multiply rapidly that may adds a problem to the building owners

Climate. The best season to plant Forsythia is during the early spring or during fall when it has a moderate temperature, but can also tolerate well in any season with available solar radiation during their growing period. For best result, plant them in March or late April in your area.

Plant nutrition. Being a hardy plant, Forsythia does not need your attention when it comes to their fertilizer needs. An occasional application of compost in your garden is enough to supply the nutritional needs of the plants.

Pests and Diseases Control. The most common insect pests of Forsythia are; aphids, Plant bugs, Two-banded Japanese Weevil. To control these pests, mix 2 tablespoon vegetable oil, 2 tablespoon baking soda, and 2 tablespoon powdered laundry soap. Mix the solution thoroughly and spray directly into the objects until they’re totally eradicated.

If you use a natural control method, introduce into your garden the following; parasitic wasps, ladybugs and green lacewings for eradicating aphids.

Happy gardening!

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How to Grow and Manage Artichokes

Wednesday, October 27th, 2010
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How to Grow and Manage Artichokes

Artichokes buds

Artichokes (Cynara scolymus), believed to be a native of western and central Mediterranean. It was said that this plant was already grown by the Romans for over 2,000 years ago. They used it as a green and a salad plant.

It is a perennial crop grown for the their buds as the main parts used for food, it’s a large and vigorous plant that grows to a height of about six feet.

Artichokes tolerates in a cool, but not freezing weather and lots of water supply.

It is rich with Vitamins A and C, Thiamine, riboflavin, Niacin, and high in Calcium and Iron. The hearts and leaves are high in alkaline acid and is also good in reducing diet.

Artichokes’ is derived from the Italian words, “ariticiocco” and “articoclos” which means a pine cone, hence its buds resembles the cone of the pine tree.

The best soil for planting artichokes is a rich with plenty of organic matter. A soil with a mix of compost applied into the plots is much better for a vigorous plant growth especially if mixed with Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium fertilizers for good result.

To plant artichokes, you’ve to grow them in mild climate as a perennial plant, and in the second growing period, they produce the first buds in the first year as an annual plant. Once the plant is already exposed to cooler temperature known as vernalization.

Before planting the seedlings in the open field, you should raise the seedlings in the nursery 12 weeks before the last frost. After this period, place the seedlings in a cold area for another 6 weeks before the last frost.

After this frost is over, start planting your seedlings in the field. When the condition becomes warm, you’ve to plant the 6 weeks old seedlings at 2 feet distance between rows in the plots.

Maintain the amount of water supply during its growing period coupled with a monthly liquid fertilizer application.

Artichokes is a hardy plant and so, the most common pests that attacks them are the aphids, caterpillars, slugs, and snails. They can easily be controlled by a homemade insecticides to wit: 2 tablespoon vegetable oil, 2 tablespoon baking soda, and 2 tablespoon powdered laundry soap. Mix properly and spray directly to insect pests until totally eradicated.

Harvesting can done after the flower buds starts to open. You can select the best quality when it’s compact, plump and heavy and are large in size. Don’t harvest those that open and spreading, they’re already over mature, and not edible anymore.

Happy gardening!

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How to Grow and Manage Brussels Sprout

Wednesday, October 20th, 2010
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How to Grow and Manage Brussels Sprout

Brussels sprout (Brassica oleracea), belongs to the hardiest cabbage family, the Gemmifera group of vegetables. They fairly grows well with a freezing temperature more than the hot summer months.
This plant favors a wider space in its growing period to produce a bountiful yield of tasty sprouts.

You can grow Brussels sprout, by preparing your seed boxes or individual small pots. Sow the seeds in the seed boxes or pots until the time of planting which is about 4-5 weeks before transplanting. After this period, when the seedlings are 3” tall, transplant them to the prepared plots at a distance of 24 to 36” between rows or simply space them 24” in one direction.

After the seedlings are already set in the plots, put some mulching materials to maintain the moisture content in the soil for a longer period. Mulching also helps to control the growth of weeds.

You’ve to apply fertilizer by way of foliar spray at least 1-2 times a month with the use of compost tea or seaweed extract. If these fertilizer materials are available, you can mix 75 grams urea in a 16 liters of water and do the drenching methods around the base of the plant every 2 weeks for 1 month period.

Brussels sprout have the same pests and diseases with cabbage. If there are some insect pests that would attack your plant, just follow the instruction on the control measures for cabbage. Cabbage worm is one of the insect pest where the larvae devours the leaves and sometimes boring into the heads of cabbage.

The known predators of cabbage worm are the stink bug, Politest wasps, and the most common and effective parasite is the braconid.

Some other common pests of Brussels sprout such as; cabbage looper, army worms, cabbage maggots, and aphids are not as serious as the cabbage worm. If they happened to be present in your garden, follow the instruction on cabbage pests and disease control.

Harvesting this plant requires your early detection of the sizes of its sprouts. To be sure that the sprouts are ready for harvest, get a sample and slice one and measure the diameter. If it’s already at least 1 inch in diameter, it’s ready for harvest since that’s time they’re tender. Start harvesting from the bottom of the stalk going up.

To make the maturity of the sprouts faster, you’ve to pinch the top parts of the plant.

Happy gardening!

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10 Easiest Vegetables to Grow in Your Garden

Tuesday, October 5th, 2010
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10 Easiest Vegetables to Grow in Your Garden

To have a continuous supply of vegetables in your kitchen, you should plan out and list down some easy to grow plants to give you your daily vegetable needs the whole year round. Give preference to those vegetables that are rich with the needed nutritional requirement of your family.

You can select from among those that are easy to grow, less daily care and nutritional your children likes to eat. Give more importance to your kids daily nutrients needs.

Always put it your consideration the climatic needs of the veggies you want to grow. Record some particular crops that grows in a certain climate, so that in every change of climate, you’ve a certain crop to plant based on your record. This is vital since you want a continuous supply of veggies the whole year for your daily needs of fresh foods.

There are vegetables that tolerates summer, others winter, some on spring and fall. List down those veggies that grows well from these different seasons to guide you, and provide you decision what to grow.

Lists of easy to grow vegetables

1. Tomatoes. Cherry Tomatoes is a good type of tomato that easily grows in most soils and tolerates cold climate, a perfect suit for gardeners. However, if you’ll plant tomatoes in a rich soil, you will only need to apply drenching technique every week until the start of fruiting. Pick some mature fruits to encourage more fruits to develop.

2. Radish. Radishes are the easiest root vegetable you can start. They grows well in all climates, all throughout the year and in temperate zones. Radish is a short season crop and matures about 4 -5 weeks from planting to maturity. The good thing about this crop, is they’re not easily attacked by insect and disease, since they’re early maturing. If you’ve planted radish in an enriched organic compost soil, all you need do is maintain the water needs , especially in hot, dry weather. During summer put some mulch the plant base, but do away during winter months. You can harvest them as soon as they reach a reasonable size. Don’t over mature them because they become woody when becomes matured enough.

3. Sweet pepper. This is a warm climate loving vegetable and does not tolerates low overnight temperature. Sweet pepper can be planted either in containers or directly in plots or beds. You may need to put some stakes in every plant hill for wind protection if you grow them vigorously, as they reached a height up to 80 centimeters. Once they begin to bear fruits and matures, start harvesting them when the color becomes dark green or when they’re turning red. Red color fruits of sweet pepper is rich with vitamin C.

4. Zucchini. One of the cucurbits family, Zucchini is also one of the easiest crop to grow, with amazing yields and is also a warm season loving vegetable. This plant grows well in a rich soil with plenty of organic materials. They can be supported with trellis or just let them grow freely on the ground. When the fruits reach about 6 – 8 inches in length, you can harvest them. Don’t let them over mature, since they become not edible anymore when becomes mature.

5. Spinach. Spinach grows best in cooler climates. The seeds are planted directly into the beds and covered with soil and maintain water requirements especially during hot weather condition. To have enough nutrition, you’ve to apply drenching (organic liquid fertilizer in the base of the plant. To harvest them, simply harvest those big leaves and leave at least 5 – 7 stalks to make the plant continue its growth development.

6. Spring Onions. Spring onions belongs to the Allium family and grow in a rich soil with organic materials. Spring onion responds well with enough water and proper mulch to keep the weeds. Harvest spring onions when they’re become big enough for kitchen use.

7. Peas. Peas are high yielder if given the proper care and with enough food nutrients in its entire growth period. To have a better produce, you should plant them in late summer up to late winter. They tolerates in high soil pH than most vegetables, so put lime into the soil along with compost for better growth response. Put some plant support for climbing, since they produce more fruits when given a support. Harvest the fruits regularly to produce more fruits.

8. Bush Beans. There are many different varieties of beans you can select. As a starter, select the bush variety. Bush beans grows favorably in warm weather condition. For a continuous supply of beans, start your next sowing when the first crop has grown their first true leaves. Feed with a liquid organic fertilizer when flowering starts. Remember to harvest your beans while they’re young and tender. They taste better this way, but more importantly, they will give you much better yields.

9. Peas. Peas will yield heavily if you give them what they need. And they are so delicious! Most varieties love the same conditions. Plant in late summer through to late winter, providing your soil is still workable. Peas like a higher pH than most vegetables, so add some lime into the soil along with mature compost or organic fertilizer. Provide support by giving them something to climb up. Keep moist in dry weather. Harvest regularly to produce more fruits.

10. Carrots. Carrots are easy to grow, but full-size varieties don’t tolerates in a rocky kind of soil. This crop grows well in soils rich with organic materials. Harvest them when their storage roots are big enough.

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5 Unusual Flowers to Put in Your Garden

Tuesday, October 5th, 2010
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5 Unusual Flowers to Put in Your Garden

Unusual flowers brings attraction in our garden since they’re unique in their appearance and mystical beauty worthy of appreciation to florist and nursery operators.

They separates from the domesticated flowers and are bet a mystery as to their unusual natural characteristics hence they’re considered unusual flowers.

Below are lists of unusual flowers.

1. Corpse Lily (Rafflesia arnoldii). Discovered by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles and company this flower a native of Sumatra , Java and eastern Malaysia, is unusual because of its smell like a rotten meat. Its flower start to form a cabbage-like bud on the root of the host plant and it would take nine months before it matures and open into beautiful red flower with white spots and exudes a disgusting odor similar to dead rotten animals. Its single flower weight around 11 kilos and produced about several gallons of nectar. And this is considered as the largest flower of the world measuring about 3 feet in diameter bloom and produces a thousands seeds. Corpse lily grows with the aid of a host plant where it gets to provide its roots, leaves, stem and even its chlorophyll needs.

2. Butterwort (Pinguicula). Called in Latin as Pinguicula, which means “little greasy one”, Butterwort is a unique plant that hide a slippery secret lip-like in appearance with a spur end rise on simple stems several inches into the air. Its leaves have a greasy substance like a glue secreted by thousands invisible glandular hairs used to catch insects. This glands that exudes produces acids and enzymes that coat the insects that are glued until dissolve its soft part. Butterwort composed about 70 species, but only few are recently discovered, while others are still open for discovery. The plant have typically circular and rosette form leaves with a musty or earthly smell that measures a few inches in diameter. Its flowers colored reddish, others are white, pink, purple or yellow are funnel-shaped, cupped or flat, with beards for some species and blooms in spring that last for a couple of months.

3. Titan Arum (Amorphophallus titanum). Discovered by Ordoardo Beccari in 1878, an Italian botanist, this plant is an appalling in the garden because of its flower’s smell as bad as the corpse lily. Called as the “Worst smelling flower in the world”, titan arum is a native of Sumatra and is called “bugna bangkai’ or corpse flower because of its odor that emits a rotting flesh. The plant grows from a large tuber weight from 25 – 50 kilos. Once the tuber becomes dormant, the flower emerges which produces a large, petal-like leaf, the spathe, which forms a vase. The color of the outside spathe is green and the inside is red meat in color. From the center of the vase, a tapered column-like stem called spadix grows straight up with a heights of 6 feet or more with a 3-foot diameter. (Source: University of Connecticut).

4. Flor de Muerto (Lisianthius nigrescens). A native of Mexico, this plant is unusual because of its black color flower that looks like dead hence its called the “flower of the dead”. All its plant parts are colored black, from the leaves, petals, fruits, seeds and pollen. The tubular flowers hang downward from 6 foot stems in a seemingly wilted and withered state. Another unusual characteristics of this plant is how it survive without pollinating its flower by insects because it does not possess any attributes to attract pollinating insects.

5. Bladderwort (Utricularia). Look like a miniature orchids when in blooms, bladderwort is the largest and most wide-spread genus of carnivorous plants. These are mostly found from Alaskan swamps to tropical regions, making their homes in wet, mossy trees, fast streams and seasonal deserts. When drought strikes, they transform into tiny tubers to ride it out. Their flower ranges of different color combinations. Bladderwort survived by feeding on small aquatic insects, like water fleas, mosquito larvae and tadpoles.

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Growing and Maintaining Orchids

Wednesday, September 1st, 2010
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Growing Orchids (Cattleya spp.)

Considered as a herbaceous plant, orchids belongs to one of the largest and colorful families of plants, where the big number is mostly found in the tropics growing in the mountainous places.

Its flowers are elongated, lasting, and mostly pollinated by insects – peculiar variation of shapes and colors, usually range in sizes from a centimeter to several centimeters in diameter.

Most orchid species are terrestrial but others are epiphytic that grows in the air which find support on branches of trees or on top of rocks.

Roots of orchids are classified into three types

1. Provides mains of support.

Orchids roots are used to cling to its support to stand its own. Being an epiphytic plant they look for some strong support to survive.

2. For feeds.

The roots of orchids are the ones that get food nutrients from the air. They are dependent from the moisture provided by nature. In order to survive you should supplement their water needs.

3. Aerial, which usually hangs downward and extract moisture from the air.

Most of the leaves of orchids are parallel-nerved and look almost like those of grass while others have long and wide leaves.

Culture of Orchids.

They are grown easily, especially in moist and shady places. Other species may be grown in sheltered rocks in the corner of the gardens, under trees which don’t get direct sunlight.

But there are some new species that can withstand direct sunlight, however, they need frequent watering morning and afternoon – a tedious work especially if you’re on a commercial venture.

You have to make sure they are protected from strong wind.

Orchids needs ample amount of light , but not to the extent of excessive sunlight for it may cause scorching of the plants.

If you can make it see to it that orchids can receive the morning sun than the afternoon sunshine, because afternoon sunlight is too intense to the leaves and flowers.

For sun tolerant species, you can select Vandas, Renantheras, and some Dendrobiums, while for shade loving varieties, Phalaenopsis and Cattleyas response better.

A simple rule in orchids growing is to expose them gradually to sunlight, to increase light intensity without getting them sun-sunburned.

A little amount of light produces dark green leaves with few flowers, while those exposed to too much light makes them slower growth with yellow and tough leaves.

Its unsightly when the leaves are scorched since dark spots appears with too much light intensity.

For best result, and to produce more flowers, you should grow orchids in the nursery, terrarium or greenhouse. In the greenhouse, although costly to establish, you can control sunlight distribution, temperature and humidity are controlled to suit the plant needs.

The advantage of a greenhouse is, you can control pests and diseases attack since it’s properly screened.

For Phalaenopsis, the temperature is not a problem if grown in the open – putting a roof over them will do. You may also raise orchids in a plastic-roofed slat house.

Propagation.

Generally, orchids are propagated by seeds. The seeds are extremely small and numerous.
They are hard to propagate because they are easily killed by sudden changes in their physical environment and they are attacked by parasitic fungi which are apparent during its early plant growth.

However, you can produce better propagation by placing the seeds in sterile agriculture tubes and incubate for about one year

Some new and other varieties of orchids are being raised and improved through breeding and selection. Cattleya, butterfly orchids, vandas, and dendrobiums are propagated easily from the divisions of their root sections.

The waling-waling and mariposa produces few branches at their bases when very old. Roots grew on these branches, where propagation is done through these roots.

How to Mount Orchids.

Proper mounting is very important to promote faster and vigorous growth and produce them in abundance.

Some common mounting materials available are coconut husks (for countries that grows coconut), wooden basket, piece of wood, wire basket and earthen jar.

If you’ll use an earthen jar, select the one with openings at the bottom as against with openings on the sides because it provides better drainage and with better moisture retention which is ideal for orchids.

If you’ll use a piece of wood for mounting, select the hard wood type with thick bark to withstand a longer usage.

Tie or strap firmly the plant to the wood with moss and shredded coconut husk making the plant lie closely to the wood and strapped firmly to promote faster recovery. Water the newly mounted plants at least once or twice a day.

To make a longer support for your orchids, a living tree is usually advisable to make them comfortable in their natural habitat.

Orchids does not compete with the tree for food nutrients because they are not parasitic, but epiphytes, meaning they are only using the plant as support but not their nourishment from the tree.

Plant Medium.

A mixture of moss, pieces of charcoal, and adobe stones for weight and firmness are a good plant medium for growing orchids.

Some orchid species needs no use of any plant medium. Other gardeners just simply tie the plant directly to the support and place in a shaded area.

However, frequent watering is advised to retain enough moisture.

(more…)

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How to Grow Hybrid Hibiscus

Saturday, July 17th, 2010
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How to Grow Hybrid Hibiscus
(Hibiscus rosa-sinensis “Estrella F. Alabastro”)

An addition to the Hibiscus species, a new hybrid of gumamela was bred locally by the Department of Plant Breeding at the UPLB-IPB, UP Los Banos, Laguna, Philippines.

The plant was carefully screened for beauty, hardiness, ease of propagation, and vigor which are important qualities to attract buyers and plant lovers.

The propagation is the same to the other hibiscus species except that this new hybrid needs a thorough understanding of plant propagation techniques.

To have a successful hibiscus production, the following management activities should be properly given due consideration.

Cultural Requirements

Hibiscus plant thrives best in an open field with enough supply of sunlight since they are tropical in nature that need enough light. Full sunlight is essential to make the plant develop fully and bear flowers profusely.

Those grown in shaded place are lanky and only bears few flowers. So, avoid planting them in shaded place.

Soil Requirement

Hibiscus are not choosy in their soil requirements, especially in their productive period. However, at the early stage of plant growth, hibiscus should be grown in porous, sandy soil with manures and organic compost.

The soil should be in good drainage. Hibiscus don’t thrives best in heavy soil and poor drainage because they can’t stand in waterlogged areas.

Plant Nutrition

Hibiscus planted in pots should be fertilized regularly with complete fertilizer either granular or foliar. Dilute 1 tablespoons of complete fertilizer in a gallon of water and apply every 2 weeks.

For those planted directly in the field, the following amount of fertilizer requirement should be strictly executed: 5-10 grams for small plants, 20-25 grams for medium plants, and 30-40 grams for large plants. After applying the fertilizer, water the soil to dissolve the fertilizer.

To improve the quality of flowers of your hibiscus, you should mix the complete fertilizer with a high level of Potassium and apply the mixture once a month.

Water Management

Though hibiscus doesn’t like waterlogged areas, they are water lovers but not to the extent of over-watering them.

Regular watering of hibiscus gives you a continuous supply of flowers the whole year round. On sunny days, water them every 3 days. During rainy days, you should water only when needed to avoid root rot infestation. Root rot is prevalent during this period.

To conserve water and to control pests and weeds accumulation, put mulching materials especially in the open field. The ideal mulching materials are: plastic mulch, rice hull or rice straw.

Don’t limit only the above materials as mulch, but you can use other mulching materials available in your country as a substitute of the above materials.

Plant Maintenance

As a gardener, you should be observant to your plant needs. Though they don’t talk, their physical appearance will give you signs for your immediate attention. Hibiscus are showy plants. They response productively when they are properly taken cared and pruned at least once a year.

Pruning hibiscus encourages the development of new plant growth from the pruned area from which new flowers will bloom for the next season. The best time to prune hibiscus is from May and September (under Philippine conditions these are dry months).

In your country they may not be the same with the Philippine conditions. Just observe the dry months in your country when you apply pruning to your hibiscus.

To produce healthy growth and beautiful flowers the succeeding season, cut the plant approximately 1/3 of its height.

You have to remove dead branches and those lying near the ground. Also thin out branches on the center of the plants to have a balance branches and flower distribution. This will add the appearance of the plants attractiveness once the flowers starts to bloom.

Pests and Diseases Control

The presence of pests and diseases in your hibiscus plants affects their growth performance and flower production. Therefore, always check your plants for possible attack of the pests and diseases.

The most common pests of hibiscus are…

1. Flower worms. This pest usually infest the leaves, flower buds and flowers.

2. Aphids. Aphids causes the curling of the young foliage which may be unattractive when the attack is serious.

3. Spiraling white flies. This pest attack the leaves which causes the malformation of the entire foliage.

4. Green hoppers. Serious attack of the pest to the leaves will results to cupping and yellowing of the leaves.

5. Black flea beetles. Also attack the leaves and the result will lead to shot holes in the entire leaves.

To control the damage of your entire hibiscus plants, apply the recommended insecticides specifically for the specific pests. Ask from any agriculture store in your area the specific pesticides for the insect pest.

The most common diseases of hibiscus identified are…

1. Leaf spot. The plant affected with leaf spot causes the browning and black spots on the leaves.

2. Root or collar rots. This disease attack the root and stem which results to the rotting of the entire stems and roots.

You can control these diseases by controlling water application and improve soil drainage. Check your pots if the water are properly draining out after watering. If planted in the open field, check the drainage canal of any obstacles for the free flow of water.

To chemically control these diseases, use Dithane 45 by drenching into the plant base of the plants to kill them.

But, if you can avoid chemicals, use the natural control methods by applying some plant repellants or homemade insecticides.

Get a copy of my FREE articles “Natural Control of Flowering Plants’ Insect Pests” at: www.articlesbase.com /category home improvement –gardening.

Visit my website: www.crisramasasa.com for more tips and Free resources about home gardening or mailto: cris@crisramasasa.com for more details.

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Cris Ramasasa, Freelance writer, writes about home gardening and Internet marketing tips. You can get a copy of his latest ebook “Discover How to get started in Flower Gardening” and “Vegetable Gardening Made Easy”. You can also get lots of tips, Free articles, and bonuses at: www.crisramasasa.com

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